Porcini Ragù

[Celerity]

https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1026610-porcini-ragu

https://archive.ph/mGuq5



As a child living in Tuscany, Ixta Belfrage fell for a pasta rich with dried porcini mushrooms, served at the lone restaurant in the tiny mountain village of Acone. In her cookbook, “Mezcla” (Ten Speed Press, 2022), she pays homage to the power of porcini mushrooms, which are typically gathered from the wild and taste of it, luscious and nutty. They offer a shortcut to glory in this ragù that almost defies the name, because it doesn’t demand hours on the stove and attains a velvety intensity in practically no time at all. Leave the porcini to soak and swell back to life; chop; gently fry with tomato paste, garlic, chile and parsley; rain down black pepper; melt in some Parmesan; swirl with pasta water and porcini broth and let it bubble. A dab of cream, then a slicking and coating of the pasta, and it’s on the table.



Preparation

Step 1
In a medium bowl, cover the mushrooms with boiling water and let soak for 10 minutes. Drain, reserving 5 tablespoons of the soaking liquid. Very finely chop the mushrooms, aiming to mimic the consistency of ground meat, then set aside. Heat a medium pot of salted water to a boil.

Step 2
Put the oil, garlic, crushed red pepper, parsley and heaping ¼ teaspoon salt into a cold, large sauté pan over medium-low heat. Very gently fry for 5 minutes until soft and lightly golden, turning the heat down if the garlic starts to brown.

Step 3
Increase the heat to medium-high, then add the chopped mushrooms, tomato paste and plenty of freshly ground black pepper (about 50 twists, 1 to 1½ teaspoons). Stir-fry for 3 minutes, then set the pan aside while you boil the pasta.

Step 4
Cook the pasta in the salted boiling water according to package directions until al dente. Drain, reserving 1¾ cups of the pasta water.

Step 5
Return the sauté pan with the mushroom mixture to medium-high heat, then stir in 1½ cups of the reserved pasta water plus the reserved porcini soaking liquid. Bring to a simmer. Once simmering, let it bubble away for 3 minutes.

Step 6
Add half the Parmesan, stirring until it has melted before adding the rest. Lower the heat to medium, then stir in the cream, followed by the drained tagliatelle. Toss over the heat until the pasta and sauce have emulsified, 1 to 2 minutes, adding a splash more pasta water if the pasta looks dry.

Step 7
Remove from the heat and serve at once, finished with as much olive oil and Parmesan as your heart desires, plus a sprinkling of parsley.